Intimidatingly heavy fog greeted all of us as we made our way to the Refuge for Friends' Annual Meeting on Saturday February 8. It hung with us through the 8:00 Bird Walk led by Deputy Refuge Manager John Stark. It hovered over us as almost 100 signed in and shopped for new Friends' merchandise. We bought almost $750 worth of items, with the new butterfly shirts and visors being the most popular items and some of our legacy paddling maps still calling to new Refuge kayak enthusiasts.

Friends' finances and membership continue to be strong.

Denise and Ron provided updates on outcomes of Friends' 2024 actions and expectations for 2025. Andrew presented a Refuge update.

For many of us, a highlight of the event was Andrew's heartfelt words about the commitment that he and his fellow federal employees have to their work and how it enables them to make the world a better place for all of us. The staff members applauded in agreement and it touched us all, especially at a time when our federal workers and what they do for us are being so undervalued.

This year's featured speaker, Desirée Sorenson-Groves, is president and CEO of the National Wildlife Refuge Association.  Her dynamic presentation gave us information about the history, present, and future of the refuges nationwide,

John Thalacker led a group of 13 on a nature walk on the Cypress Wetland  trail near the hurricane-destroyed River Trail.  They discussed the history of the property that makes up the current Refuge, key characteristics of some of the plants (including a little taste of the tender tips of the "green briar" and  how "sweet gum" got its name), and that there is a standing invitation for more plants to be identified and marked.

And with that, another wonderful Annual Meeting at our Refuge is in the books.

If you’ve visited Shell Mound recently, you have likely seen the effects of Hurricanes Helene and Milton which left behind piles of redeposited shell along the northern road and south ridge of the mound. Hurricanes are one of the greatest threats for archaeological sites in Florida, especially for coastal sites like Shell Mound. With climate change likely to increase the frequency and severity of hurricanes in the coming years, archaeologists are challenged with developing new ways to protect and manage these sites before they are destroyed forever.

In early January, a team of archaeologists from the University of Florida led by Dr. Ken Sassaman began rescue operations on Shell Mound. This first stage focuses on the south ridge, along an escarpment where some of the most severe storm impacts were found. Here, storm surge from Hurricane Helene undercut the top of the mound, resulting in a collapse of the mound’s surface and redepositing shell all along the slope. Wrack from the storm surge was deposited nearly ten feet in elevation along the slope, and the remaining surface is highly unstable and likely to collapse in future storm events.

Their first task involved excavating into the escarpment to create a flat vertical profile and remove shell which had been redeposited over the original surface. The excavated profile reached 180 centimeters in height. Based on the orientation of shells in the profile and changes in soil, the research team identified two possible pit features which may have been dug into the mound. Pit features such as these are valuable sources of archaeological information, and samples taken from one of the pits are pending analysis in UF’s Laboratory of Southeastern Archaeology.

Sifting through the excavated materials, the archaeologists found indigenous pottery, the remains of fish, and tools constructed out of gastropod shells. Laboratory analysis of artifacts recovered from the damaged portion of Shell Mound has not been conducted yet, however analysis may provide additional information about the practice of oyster mariculture at Shell Mound and use of the site during winter months. Oysters harvested in the winter months are generally higher quality than those harvested in other parts of the year. In addition, the relative absence of oyster “lids”, the flat half of the shell, compared to “cups”, the rounded half of the shell, may indicate that oyster lids were returned to the neighboring reefs to sustain long-term oyster harvesting, while the cups were primarily used as a building material for the mound.

In the spring, UF archaeologists will continue excavations from the original surface identified in this first stage of rescue operations. These excavations are likely to reach an additional two meters in depth, providing the deepest and most intact profile of Shell Mound to date which may reveal information about the origins and construction of Shell Mound. Following this second stage of excavations, the loose shell will be redeposited over the damaged areas in an attempt to stabilize the slope of the mound and mitigate the effects of future hurricanes.

In addition to on-the-ground research and stabilization, researchers from the GatorEye Unmanned Flying Laboratory have used drones to collect LiDAR data on the surface of Shell Mound following the 2024 hurricanes. LiDAR is a technology which uses laser scans to create three-dimensional models of the earth’s surface. Comparing this recent LiDAR data to data collected prior to the 2024 hurricane season will allow researchers to identify the extent of impacts from Hurricanes Helene and Milton, prioritize rescue work on areas showing the most severe impacts, and predict areas most likely to be impacted by future storms.

Hurricanes aren’t the only threat to Shell Mound, and human interventions can make the effects of storms worse. It is no coincidence that some of the most severe damage was along the northern road and south ridge, where the original slope of the mound was destroyed to make room for the road in the 1970s. If you visit Shell Mound, avoid walking on or near undercut surfaces, and be mindful around areas of exposed shell.

Thanks to tireless efforts by Dusty and Kathy Dusterwinkle, the Salt Creek Trail is once again open for exploration. In the wake of the 2024 hurricanes, the trail was buried under more than two feet of marsh grass, debris, and fallen trees. But thanks to the determination and hard work of our dedicated volunteers, this delightful 1/3 mile loop is walkable again.

Our Dixie County camper volunteers tackled the overwhelming task of clearing the trail by hand, tirelessly pitchforking and raking away the layers of marsh grass. Additionally, Dusty and Kathy took on the challenge of removing five fallen trees that obstructed the path, as well as four more that blocked Salt Creek Road.

Beyond simply restoring the trail, Dusty and Kathy added their own special touches to enhance the experience for all who visit. Handcrafted signs mark the way, and thoughtfully placed seating invites hikers to pause and appreciate the views—views that are more expansive than before the storms reshaped the landscape.

Come out and enjoy the trail.

​If you can, please help us remove the litter that was deposited by the storms.

On December 21, 2024, the Friends of the Lower Suwannee & Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuges hosted their annual Winter Solstice event at the Tiki Bar in Cedar Key. Attendees gathered to witness a stunning sunset over the water as part of the celebration.

The event featured Dr. Ken Sassaman as the keynote speaker, who shared fascinating facts and stories about the significance of the Solstice to ancient Native American cultures. His talk captivated the audience, shedding light on how these early peoples revered the Solstice as a time of renewal and reflection.

The gathering provided a beautiful setting to honor the natural rhythms of the earth while fostering a deeper appreciation for local history and culture.

The good news is that Hurricane Helene did not damage Friends' merchandise. The bad news is that it took out our primary post office for fulfilling orders and made filling orders quite a challenge. We are still open for holiday shopping, but things are a bit slower.

Friends' merchandise has been popular for years. Visitors to our Refuges, Friends' members, and folks who come to local festivals have been strong Refuge supporters. Friends members and Refuge staff delight in seeing our hats, shirts, and other branded items being worn and displayed. It is as much a way to raise awareness of how many support the Refuges as it is a source of modest revenue for Friends' programs.

During the pandemic, we opened an online store to keep the merchandise available. Board members volunteered to keep items at their homes and ship them out as they were ordered. One volunteer would fulfill orders on the iconic tree tee shirts, another orders for Blue Goose passports, another for hats and earrings. It kept the task from being overwhelming for a single volunteer. If someone ordered a butterfly shirt, a tree shirt, and a book, the order would be filled by three different people and sometimes mailed from three different places since some volunteers live in Cedar Key and others in surrounding areas.

We are actually quite proud of our volunteer-centered, distributed fulfillment process. It meets the need and lets many people be involved in the work. Friends does not have a physical store and sells only at festivals and from our Refuge Rover. The online store continued to be successful  after the pandemic.

Last summer the merchandise team tried hard to order additional Blue Goose passports which were in high demand. Disappointingly, the books are out of print and unobtainable.

In better news, the team designed a new, blue, v-neck butterfly shirt. Production was held up by the hurricanes, but the shirt will be available starting around December 18. It is nice to have a new item for the New Year!

And then, along came Hurricane Helene. It wiped out the post office in Cedar Key and put a lot of stress on the volunteers to repair their own and neighbors' homes and properties. For the time being, if an order is filled by a Cedar Key volunteer, it must be driven to a post office miles away to be sent. The mobile post office unit is not equipped to deal with mailing packages. Luckily, the volunteer who will fill the butterfly shirt orders mails from Gainesville.

On Monday, December 9, a crew of 12 Friends members joined Refuge Manager Andrew Gude and Deputy Manager John Stark to work on making the Dennis Creek Trail usable again. The trail was heavily flooded by Hurricane Helene. Trees fell into the trail. Wind and water carried inches of sea debris onto it, along with a lot of plastic and aluminum bottles, foam floats, and other flotsam.

Armed with mostly hand tools, the crew of volunteers removed black needlerush thatch where it piled so high that walking was difficult. They used loppers to trim back branches and vines that would hang in hikers way. They pushed aside the branches, palm fronds, and other items that would be "trip hazards."

The trail is now quite usable by sure-footed hikers. It still has a few inches of black needlerush and sea wrack and many sticks to watch for. Pushing a kid in a stroller would be seriously difficult. Progress was made, but Helene's damage is still very much in evidence. The Friends' volunteer crew hopes that as more folks can now walk the trail, it will get tamped down and made more firm underfoot making it an even more comfortable walk.

Habitat restoration has been a primary focus at Lower Suwannee NWR. Daniel Barrand, our outstanding forester, and Vic Doig, our now-retired fire expert, worked together to thin, mechanically treat, burn and re-introduce native trees.
 
We know that prescribed burning is essential for the success of the habitat restoration. That makes us curious to know . . . where is the smoke? It seems there have not been any burns for some time now.

There may be good reasons for the lack of burning. We are acutely aware that the small number of staff members have a broad range of responsibilities. Still, for those of us who live near the Refuge, it is easy to smell or see the smoke when burns are done. We note how few are happening. Perhaps conditions for conducting burns have not been suitable for a long time.

Friends’ Advocacy Committee will meet with Refuge Manager Andrew Gude with our concerns.   Perhaps we can help establish a database about the burning frequency over the last ten years. If we are correct about the reduction in frequency, the data might help call attention to the need for help so our staff can protect the restoration that is underway.   

Many of you are familiar with the Vista Camp and the visions that have been forming for its future over the years. The Refuge is getting ready to apply for a mega grant to fund improvements and enhancements at the Vista Camp and we will need lots of supporting comments to help the application's ranking. This unique property has inspired ideas ranging from a dynamic welcome center or museum to an outdoor retreat called Destination Nature—a place for programs, activities, and events that connect people to the wonders of nature. Even simpler plans, like an interpretive path and a few picnic tables, could still honor the spirit and story of this remarkable site.

For the second year in a row, thanks to hurricanes Idalia and Helene, we cannot have our traditional Winter Solstice event at the Shell Mound. Sadly, the repair of the pier will not be complete in time for this year's event, 

However, we've got a great plan to make it happen in a spectacular place to hear UF Archaeologist Dr. Ken Sassaman's account of what transpired in our area between AD 400  and  AD 650 as indigenous peoples from the eastern region of the U.S. gathered to celebrate the shortest day and longest night of the year when the sun is at its southernmost point of its yearly motion in the sky. 

The sunset will be the back drop for the presentation thanks to Low Key Hideaway/Tiki Bar owner, Scott Larsen, who enthusiastically agreed to allow Friends to hold the annual event there. 

Please join us around 4:30pm on Saturday, December 21, 2024, at the Lowkey Hideaway and Tiki Bar located at 12050 FL-24 in Cedar Key. The presentation will start around 5:00pm in anticipation of sunset at 5:38pm.  After the presentation, conveniently, beverages and food are available at the Tiki Bar and food truck on the premises allowing for more discussions and socializing. Hope to see you there!

Just like the Friends members and board, all of us on staff will all miss the ~ 34 year old River Trail so very much!

It was one of the most popular places to walk in the Refuge. Before Hurricane Idalia destroyed the boardwalks and then Hurricane Helene finished the job, the River Trail was the most accessible trail to see the Suwannee River,  However, realistically, the cost of rebuilding the entire boardwalk and then repairing it after the next inevitable tree-fall tree is not within our budget or capacity.

Therefore, the Refuge is seeking funding to replace it with an alternate dock for access to the Suwannee River. We anticipate it it will be years before our turn will come up in the queue to get money to do this work, but we are working on it.

As reported earlier when Representative Kat Cammack visited the Refuge in February, the Lower Suwannee and Cedar Keys NWRs have not had a law enforcement officer on site for more than a year now.

Recently, the refuge managers received news that one may be assigned to us in the foreseeable future. That would be a most welcome change in status!

The Refuge staff members and Friends members have been actively participating in the clean-up after Hurricane Helene. The Refuge is part of the official Incident Response System and staff members can therefore be sent where they are most needed.

Deputy Refuge Manager John Stark and Heavy Equipment Specialist Jason Coates have been helping individual residents with clearing debris and the city and state workers with re-enforcing the shoreline.

We all appreciate having our Refuges right next door when we want to spend time in nature. But it is also good to know that the Refuge leadership and staff members appreciate and value the communities and are there for us when we need them in a crisis. Thanks, Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge.

On October 7, the Avian Research and Conservation Institute posted this on Facebook:
As the southeast reels between hurricanes, we hope to bring a little distraction with news of migrating Swallow-tailed Kites, many of which have safely reached their winter destinations in South America.

More detail is presented on ARCI blog page.

As reported below, our Swallow-tailed Kite Suwannee 22 survived her harrowing encounter with Hurricane Debby and returned to our area to recover from the ordeal. Apparently, she did a fine job of building up her strength again. Our friends at Avian Research and Conservation Institute (ARCI) have tracked her new flight across the Gulf of Mexico. She is now resting up to complete her migration to Brazil.

Friends is proud to be part of this research. Thanks to all Friends members who have contributed to helping sponsor Suwannee's tracker.

The ARCI blog has fascinating additional information. This photo is from their blog post entitled The Hurricane Swallow-tailed Kite: the sequel.

Following her instincts rather than the news reports, Suwannee 22 took off on her migration to Brazil just days before Hurricane Debby developed. She bumped into the storm before reaching Cuba and turned back north, just as Debby intensified. Somehow she ended up in the eye and arrived safely in Steinhatchee. Read all about it in this blog from the Avian Research & Conservation Institute. Now our brave and exhausted bird will need to build up her strength and fuel up on lots of food all over again. Friends are cheering for her and very glad to be part of the research that documented such amazing flight.
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USA Today covered the story and used a cool animated track.