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Welcome to Friends' annual re-posting of the Swamp Apes and Hunting story. Five years ago, US Fish and Wildlife Public Affairs specialist Dan Chapman published a story about hunting on the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge. We know our hunters and other visitors enjoy it and thus, it is back by popular demand. Not Even the Swamp Ape Legend Deters Hunters from Flocking to the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge
by Dan Chapman, public affairs specialist
October 28, 2020 Chiefland, Florida – If ever there was a time to get out and into the woods and hunt, this pandemic-riven season is surely it. But beware the Swamp Ape.
The what? Swamp Ape. Skunk Ape. Moth Man. Whatever you call it, some Big Bend hunters swear they’ve seen a large half-man, half-beast creature prowling the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge. Andrew Gude, refuge manager, felt compelled to address the reports - or myths - in the 2020-21 hunt brochure: “There is no taking of Swamp or Skunk Apes,” it reads. Gude is skeptical of the beast’s existence, though he remains open to the possibility. And he doubts fears of any hairy, smelly, eight-foot tall creature will keep hunters from heading into the refuge’s swamps and pine forests and a much-needed opportunity to distance themselves from their Covid-infused daily lives. “There’s a trend, overall, and an uptick in hunters here at the refuge,” Gude said recently. “Hunting allows folks to go out and maintain distance from other people. You don’t want to be around anybody else anyway.” The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service recently expanded opportunities for hunters and anglers at 147 refuges and hatcheries nationwide. The Service added 1.4 million acres the year before. More than 4 million acres, overall, has been opened to the rod and gun crowd. In addition, more than 110 new or expanded hunting and fishing opportunities - new species, acres, and times to hunt and fish - will be offered to more closely align federal and state rules. More than 2.4 million “hunting visits” took place during the most recent fiscal year - up 2.3 percent over the previous year - according to newly released statistics from refuges across the country. Hunting and fishing generate millions of dollars in revenue for states each year via the sale of licenses, tags and excise taxes on firearms, ammo and sport fishing equipment. The money helps state wildlife agencies manage their public lands and at-risk species. “When I first moved down here I mandated that we get as close to state rules as we can,” said Gude, who arrived at Lower Suwannee nine years ago. “We probably have the most hunting opportunities of any refuge outside of Alaska. We have 200 days of aggregate hunting - the number of waterfowl, deer, hog, turkey and small game days combined. And north Florida has a huge hunt culture. We’ve always been pretty popular here.” The refuge covers 53,000 acres of salt and freshwater wetlands, cypress swamps, hardwood forests and old pine plantations - enough varied habitats to satisfy the most discerning of hunters and fishers. Unlike most refuges created to protect wildlife, Lower Suwannee was established in 1979 to ensure the water quality of the famed Suwannee River. The fresh water mixes with the Gulf of Mexico’s salt water to create a fertile estuary that nourishes sturgeon, migratory shorebirds, wading birds, and waterfowl, while attracting commercial and recreational fishermen. The refuge straddles 20 miles of the Suwannee River (“way down upon the Swanee River”) and 30 miles of relatively untrammeled Big Bend coastline. It’s riddled with hiking and paddling trails, old logging roads, boardwalks, and fishing piers. The nine-mile Nature Drive offers easy access to prime hunting and fishing grounds. A week before archery season began, in late September, hunters were doing recon and hauling in deer stands. Greg Lang already knew where he wanted to go. He has lived in nearby Cedar Key for 35 years and hunts, fishes, bikes Lower Suwannee maybe 60 times a year. Deer. Turkey. Ducks. Hogs. “I stepped on an alligator crossing a creek once,” said Lang, vice president of an environmental engineering firm. “The old-timers tell me I was really lucky I stepped on his head. If I’d stepped on his back, he would’ve grabbed my leg.” He continued, “That place is very special. It’s a lot of wet swamp, some of it very thick. It gives me more of a challenge. There’s a couple of spots close to the Suwannee River near some oak hammocks where the acorns are starting to drop. All in all, it’s a challenging place to hunt.” Archery season got off to a rousing start this year. Gude’s cell phone, whose number he readily shares, has been blowing up with hunters asking all sorts of permit, season, access and tree-stand questions. Calls from Tampa, Sarasota, Gainesville, Georgia. Seems people are keen to get out of the house and into nature and, temporarily, leave Covid behind. “I am absolutely sure that this health emergency makes people appreciate the beauty around them and what they can do to stay healthy,” said Lang, a longtime member of the friends’ group that supports the Lower Suwannee refuge. “Bottom-line, if you spend more time in wilderness you’re healthier.” As long as you don’t come across the Swamp Ape. Similarly hairy sightings have been reported in the Everglades and the Okefenokee too. Thirty-five years traipsing across Lower Suwannee and Lang has never seen the legendary creature. He’s not certain it exists. “I want to believe in it,” he said, “but this is the Redneck Riviera so most of us who play outdoors look and smell like Swamp Apes anyways.” Our recently retired refuge manager Andrew Gude has been selected by the National Wildlife Refuge Association (NWRA) as the Refuge Manager of the Year. NWRA is a Washington DC-based nonprofit organization working to protect, promote, and enhance all national wildlife refuges. Jointly with the NWRA, Friends will hold a local, community-wide celebration when the award is presented. Refuge Manager of the Year Awards Presentation Event Who's invited: Everyone Who Wants to Applaud Andrew and his Accomplishments Event is postponed due to Gov't Shutdown. It will be rescheduled and new date will be posted. When: Friday, November 7 from 3:00 to 5:00 Where: Emmitt's River Retreat in Fowlers Bluff What is the street address: 15149 NW 46th Lane, Chiefland FL 32626 Friends of Lower Suwannee and Cedar Keys NWRs nominated Andrew because of we know how outstanding he is. We wanted him to be recognized nationally for all he has done in our communities. The nomination detailed Andrew's:
"Federal employees like Andrew exemplify the best of how people devote their lives and careers to make the world a better place for humans and wildlife alike,” said Desirée Sorenson-Groves, President and CEO of the NWRA. “We could not be more thrilled to honor Andrew for his work not only at Lower Suwannee and Cedar Keys, but indeed for the entire National Wildlife Refuge System." Many local leaders and refuge volunteers had words of support for the nomination.
The National Wildlife Refuge Association’s announcement of the awards provides additional information.
Swamp Darner. photo: xpda When we think of dragonflies, we often picture dazzling aerobatics over still water or a flash of iridescent wings in the sun. But one of the most fascinating—and diverse—aspects of their life cycle happens before the nymphs ever take to the skies: egg-laying, or oviposition. And nowhere is the range of reproductive strategies more vividly on display than at the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge. From ancient methods to remarkable modern adaptations, female dragonflies here demonstrate a stunning variety of ways to give the next generation a chance at life. Let's take a closer look at three incredible examples: 1. The Swamp Darner: A Living Plant as a Nursery One of the refuge’s most charismatic species, the Swamp Darner (Epiaeschna heros) looks like something out of prehistory—and in many ways, it is. When it comes time to lay eggs, the female uses her sturdy ovipositor like a tiny scalpel, slicing directly into the living stems of plants such as buttonbush and depositing her eggs deep inside. This strategy, considered one of the most primitive forms of oviposition among dragonflies, protects the eggs from desiccation, predators, and fluctuations in water level. It also allows the larvae to hatch directly into a secure, moist environment. Occasionally, a female darner mistakenly attempts to “oviposit” on a hiker’s arm or leg–this is harmless, but can be alarming. 2. The Wandering Glider: Master of the Ephemeral At the opposite end of the spectrum is the Wandering Glider (Pantala flavescens), sometimes called the “rainpool glider.” These delicate, golden-bodied dragonflies are true global travelers—capable of migrating across oceans—and they’ve adapted to take full advantage of temporary water bodies. Wandering Glider. photo: Basile Morin Females drift effortlessly across the landscape, dipping their abdomens into shallow, ephemeral ponds created by rain. Rather than laying a whole clutch in one spot, they deposit a few eggs at a time—a strategy that spreads risk and increases the odds of survival in unpredictable environments. This approach is seen as one of the most advanced forms of egg-laying, reflecting millions of years of adaptation to dynamic coastlines. The Lower Suwannee’s seasonal wetlands are critical to this species, and lucky observers might witness a glider sowing the seeds of the next generation across a shimmering rainpool after a summer storm. 3. The Seaside Dragonlet: Life Begins in Saltwater Perhaps the most extreme and surprising oviposition strategy on the Refuge belongs to the Seaside Dragonlet (Erythrodiplax berenice), the only North American dragonfly known to lay its eggs in saltwater. Seaside Dragonlet. photo: Andrew Cannizzaro This beautiful, often-overlooked species thrives in coastal marshes, salt flats, and brackish ponds—places where few other dragonflies dare to venture. Here, females deposit eggs directly into saline waters, and the larvae somehow manage to survive and thrive in conditions that would kill most others. The males, striking in their velvety ebony hues, are often seen perching low in the salt marsh, guarding territories and potential mates. The ability of this species to complete its life cycle in saltwater is not only unique—it’s a powerful reminder of the resilience and adaptability of wildlife in the face of environmental extremes. Nature’s Ingenuity On Display The range of oviposition strategies among dragonflies at the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge—from slicing into stems to sprinkling eggs across miles of ponds, to braving saltwater—offers a window into the evolutionary creativity of life. Each strategy reflects a delicate balance between risk and reward, predator and prey, permanence and change. And each dragonfly, in her own way, is helping to ensure the survival of a lineage that has danced through the air for more than 300 million years. So next time you're walking through the Refuge and see a glint of wings or a flicker near the water’s edge, take a moment to appreciate not just the beauty of the dragonfly—but the remarkable story she carries in every egg she lays. August marks a crucial time for the sea turtles that share Florida's beautiful coastline. Female turtles, driven by an ancient instinct, emerge from the surf to lay their eggs, a tireless act that ensures the continuation of their species. While a single female can lay hundreds of eggs, the journey from nest to maturity is fraught with peril, making human intervention and awareness more critical than ever. A Perilous Beginning The survival rate of sea turtle hatchlings is astonishingly low. From the moment they are laid, the eggs face threats from natural predators such as raccoons, birds, and other opportunistic scavengers. Even after a successful hatching, the vulnerable hatchlings face a gauntlet of dangers on their short crawl to the sea, where they will then encounter aquatic predators. The unfortunate reality is that only a tiny fraction of a nest's occupants will survive to adulthood. Our Role in Conservation As visitors to these vital nesting grounds, we have a profound responsibility to protect these fragile creatures. Here's how you can help:
Nesting and Hatching Facts Sea turtle eggs typically incubate for a period of 45 to 70 days before hatching. The length of this period can vary depending on the species of turtle and the temperature of the sand. Cooler temperatures generally result in a longer incubation period, while warmer temperatures can shorten it. Additionally, the temperature of the sand determines the sex of the hatchlings; warmer nests produce more females, while cooler nests produce more males. By following these simple guidelines, we can all play a significant role in boosting the chances of these incredible animals. Protecting the nests today ensures that future generations will continue to witness the awe-inspiring sight of sea turtles returning to our shores. We will miss getting news from and about our Swallow-tailed Kite, Suwannee 22. She was tagged in the spring three years ago on the Lower Suwannee NWR by the Avian Research and Conservation Institute team with help from the Refuge staff. She was our second Kite, the successor to Suwannee, tagged in 2019, and predecessor to Suwannee Scout who has just been tagged. We have to hope that Suwannee 22 has outlived her tracker's battery, but we won't get more news of her. The tracker is no longer working. She has been a hearty adventurer.
Farewell to our adventurer. Thanks for calling home and sharing your travels with us all these years.
A New Chapter in Swallow-tailed Kite Conservation In a beautiful culmination of years of conservation and community collaboration, a new Swallow-tailed Kite named Suwannee Scout now soars over the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge — her journey tracked by scientists, students, and bird lovers alike. A Legacy of Tracking and Conservation The story began in 2019 when the Avian Research and Conservation Institute (ARCI) partnered with the Friends of the Lower Suwannee and Cedar Keys Refuges to track Swallow-tailed Kites, once widespread across the Mississippi Valley but now limited to a fraction of their former range. Using satellite telemetry, researchers monitored the incredible 10,000-mile migration journey of these birds to Brazil and back. The first bird, affectionately named Suwannee, became a Refuge icon. Even after its transmitter was believed to be defunct, it miraculously “called home” again in 2022. By then, a second bird — Suwannee 22 — had joined the research effort, outfitted with a tracker sponsored by Friends in 2022. Her brush with Hurricane Debby in 2024, surviving a flight through the storm’s eye, captured national attention and inspired a Collier County school to get involved. Enter Suwannee Scout In July 2025, the newest chapter began. Thanks to Parkside Elementary School’s dedicated science teacher, Mr. David Ware, and his curious students, the school raised over $1,300 toward a new GPS tracker. Partnering with Friends and the Florida Ornithological Society, they helped fund the remaining cost of tagging a third kite: Suwannee Scout. On a humid June morning, a skilled team — including ARCI’s Gina Kent, researchers from the University of Florida, and a glove-trained Great Horned Owl named Gracie — succeeded in capturing and tagging a Swallow-tailed Kite at an active nest site on the Refuge’s southern end. Within 30 minutes, Suwannee Scout was fitted with her lightweight tracking device and released back to her territory. The students of Parkside Elementary School named her through a contest and now eagerly track her movements as part of their science curriculum. From breeding territories to wintering grounds, Suwannee Scout offers real-time insights into migration, ecology, and conservation — turning birdwatching into immersive education. A Model for the Future
This project exemplifies what’s possible when science, education, and community engagement come together. As the students monitor Suwannee Scout’s journey across continents, they also learn about ecosystems, geography, climate, and cooperation. The work continues. With each migration season, these tagged birds help conservationists understand the challenges Swallow-tailed Kites face, and how we can better protect their habitats. You can follow Suwannee Scout’s journey and support the program by visiting the Friends’ Wish List. Long may she soar. from Lukas Desjardins, member of Friends' Board of Directors and UF graduate student of public archaeology With post-hurricane recovery excavations completed at Shell Mound, and the next hurricane season already underway, the refuge has begun the process of restoring Shell Mound. On Monday, July 7th, our crew from UF’s Laboratory of Southeastern Archaeology joined refuge staff to assist with the process of infilling damaged portions of the south ridge. Refuge staff brought in crushed lime rock to infill the damaged portions of the south ridge. The hope is that after a few rains, once the material settles, it will begin to harden and create a more durable surface to survive future storms. By recreating a more natural slope on the south ridge, wave energy will be better attenuated during storm surges and waves will be less likely to undercut the site. Fortunately for our crew, we had Jason Coates operating the skid steer to do most of the heavy lifting. For most of the fill material, Jason carried it to the apex of the site and dropped it along the edge of the escarpment. It was a tight fit and he had to be careful of the unstable surface, and around half of the material in each load had to be manually shoveled onto the base of the escarpment. One benefit of dropping the fill from the top of the mound is it allows gravity to do a lot of the work for us, forming a natural talus slope. After a few loads of fill, Jason pushed some of the loose shell over the lime rock. This both helps improve the appearance of the site and will hopefully provide another line of defense against erosion. Unfortunately, Jason’s skid steer had mechanical issues around the middle of the day, and he and John Stark had to leave to get replacement parts. The fill brought to the site on Monday was about half of the required volume for the south ridge, and another load of fill will be ready in August to finish the process. We expect that around twice as much fill will be needed to finish the repairs. After the infilling is done, the surface will be capped with additional loose shell. While we can’t turn back the clock and restore the context that was destroyed by Hurricane Helene, we are hopeful that we can take proactive steps to improve the resiliency of Shell Mound and stem the losses that will occur in future hurricane seasons. Repairs at the Shell Mound pier are still underway, and the boat ramp remains inaccessible to the public at this time.
When you purchase a hunting permit for the Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge, you’re doing more than gaining access to public lands — you're directly contributing to their care and upkeep. Hunting fees collected here stay on the Refuge and are reinvested in ways that benefit hunters and other outdoor users alike. Your dollars help fund critical maintenance and improvements through what's known as 8081 funds — the federal budget used for refuge infrastructure and upkeep. Here are just a few ways those funds can be used:
Thanks for supporting public lands — and for being part of what keeps them strong for future generations of hunters.
We’re excited to announce that we’re giving our website a fresh new look! Our site, while rich in content, has maintained a more traditional design with an emphasis on informational text. The updated version will retain all the valuable information you look for—but will be presented in a more modern, streamlined format. Our goals are:
Our end is to make your experience smoother, faster, and more engaging—while keeping the trusted Refuge news and information you count on. You will see some changes already but this remains a work in progress. See it in action! We’d love to hear your feedback as we continue to improve! Did you know that of the 13 islands in the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge, four are designated wilderness, while none of the Lower Suwannee NWR lands carry that designation? So what’s the difference between Refuge land and Refuge-designated wilderness? Both types of land are managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and set aside for conservation, but the key difference lies in the level of protection and allowable uses. Designated wilderness, on the other hand, is protected under the Wilderness Act of 1964 and managed to preserve its “untrammeled” character. That means no motorized vehicles, no new permanent structures, and minimal human impact. Even wildlife managers and researchers must follow strict rules when working in these areas. Access is usually limited to foot or paddle travel, making these places some of the most pristine and untouched parts of our public lands.
In the Cedar Keys, four islands—Snake, Seahorse, Deadman's, and North Keys—are protected wholly or in part not just as National Wildlife Refuge, but also under the Wilderness designation specified in Public Law 92.364. This dual status helps safeguard nesting bird colonies, fragile shorelines, and sensitive habitats from disturbance. At the Lower Suwannee Refuge, although no areas are designated wilderness, large swaths of land are still remote, undeveloped, and offer a strong sense of solitude. The difference is more in policy than in appearance: you might see a trailhead kiosk or hear an airboat in the distance, but you’ll still be surrounded by wild Florida. Whether you’re standing on a sandbar in a designated wilderness or hiking a pine flatwoods trail in the Lower Suwannee, you’re part of a legacy of land set aside for nature—and for future generations to enjoy. Friends' Summer Solstice event at the Low-Key Hideaway Tiki Bar on Saturday, June 21st was a lovely celebration. The breezes blew. The no-seeums stayed away. The shade was adequate. Best of all, the presentation by Dr. Ken Sassaman was informative and enjoyable.
Ideally, both Summer and Winter Solstice celebrations would be held at Shell Mound. There, on the summer solstice, the sun rises over the closed end of the parabolic (U-shaped) dune on which the Mound is built. On the winter solstice, the sun sets between the open arms of the dune. Shell Mound was a ceremonial as well as residential place for the native people. Friends looks forward to returning there to celebrate as soon as the hurricane damages are mitigated and the pier is safe again. Until the Shell Mound Pier is rebuilt, the Tiki Bar is a beautiful setting for our celebrations. Click here to learn more about Shell Mound's connection to the solstices and the indigenous people who lived there as well as those who gathered there from throughout the southeast region. Dr. Sassaman, the Hyatt and Cici Brown Professor of Florida Archaeology at the University of Florida, talked about the civic-ceremonial activities that occurred at Shell Mound and what is being done today to better understand the people who lived there and the changes to the Mound itself over time. Friends’ updates in April and in May concerning the staff reductions and other precipitous changes at the Refuges received several comments from Friends members and News Brief readers expressing their concerns. Community support for our Refuges is apparently strong and surely essential. Sharing Friends' Perspective and Concerns We sent the updates to Congresswoman Kat Cammack. The District Director of her Gainesville office, Jessica Norfleet, invited Peg Hall and Jay Bushnell, members of Friends' Advocacy Committee, to meet with Kat during the Memorial Day Congressional break to discuss Friends’ concerns. Our plan was to emphasize to her the critical role of the Refuges in the economy and quality of life in her District and the need for her to be an advocate for the Refuges. As it turned out, our meeting was postponed until her next time in the District. Friends will continue to communicate with her in the interim.
The Public Lands Caucus
Contacting our Representative
Using her website's contact form, Friends’ president Ron Kamzelski wrote to Kat, urging her to join the Caucus. Other Friends’ board members and volunteers have contacted her also to encourage her to support the Lower Suwannee and Cedar Keys NWRs and join the Public Lands Caucus. If you want to urge her to support our Refuges, you can send a message by way of the contact form on her website or call one of her offices: DC- (202)225-5744, Gainesville (352) 505-0838, or Ocala (771) 200-5542. So far, when one of us from Friends’ has called, we have always reached a staff member who took our message. It's only June, but we're getting messages from anxious hunters about the upcoming season. Thanks to Acting Refuge Manager, John Stark, here is the information. He can be reached at 850-527-8535.
Permit Release Schedule for 2025–2026 Seasons
Hurricane Helene damaged the newly-rebuilt Shell Mound Pier. Some might say that it could have been worse, But the bottom line; it needed some work. The great news is that re-building is underway and expected to be finished by later in July. In the meantime, Friends has relocated the Summer Solstice event to Low Key Hideaway this year. While the agenda will be different, the opportunity to mark the longest day of the year with a celebration and a very interesting program will continue. Hope to see you there! In the meantime, stay tuned for the reopening of the pier in a few weeks. Our Friends organization is in good shape. The Board of Directors is committed to good stewardship of not only the Refuges we support but the funds and volunteer time that members and visitors invest with us.. We are happy to announce that the Friends of the Lower Suwannee-Cedar Key Wildlife Refuge has earned a Platinum Seal of Transparency Rating from Guidestar, the organization that reviews and rates nonprofits for good governance, You and our partners can be confident that our finances are well-managed and our work is always directed to the good of our Refuge, it’s environment, and the people who enjoy both. |
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December 2025
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Friends of the Lower Suwannee & Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuges
P. O. Box 532 Cedar Key, FL 32625 [email protected] We are a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. |